Surrounding Dunhuang are many interesting day trip ideas. Ranging from ancient forts & passes, scenic geopark, geographically interesting danxia landform and various temples. You can either use Dunhuang as the base to travel about with daily return trips or take the opportunity to traverse the ancient silk road either westward (likely from Xian) or eastward (likely from Dunhuang itself or even Urumqi).
Yumen Pass
The chinese character of this fort/ pass is Jade Entrance Pass. It came into my radar due to a chinese series Parallel World starring Bai Yu and Ni Ni, which painted the pass as the mysterious gateway to an alternative world. In the real Yumen Pass, this pass is a historical point linking the silk road from east to west. Together with Yangguan Pass, these 2 fort cities provides the link to old time caravans traversing the roads, often serving as unofficial immigration stops.
The actual area is huge and looks deserted, requiring an entrance fees of RMB40 to enter. Upon entry, the tourist-friendly attraction provides electrical vehicle transportation to traverse the 3 main attractions within, costing RMB50 (separate booking & payment). If you are like Ni Ni’s character in Parallel World, who deems the entrance fees of RMB40 too much and will definitely not pay the RMB50 for transport, you will have to take a long walk from one attraction to another.
Within Yumen, there are generally 3 attractions – Big Fangpan Castle, Small Fangpan Castle and Great Wall of Han Dynasty. Along the areas are mostly deserted places with little left from the constructions of past. However, you can still imagine the glory of the past when the place is occupied with caravans eager to send their trade goods but wary of strangers trying to snatch their goods. The great wall is now reduced to smaller ruins, but the original form part of the defensive wall. Even with the help of the electric vehicles, be prepared to spend a good 2 – 3 hours within to immerse in the history of Yumen Pass.
Yangguan Pass
Located about 70 km southeast from Yumen Pass is the “newer” and more touristy Yangguan Pass. Entrance fee is RMB50, whereby the attraction area is equally huge. At the entrance at about 9 am, there are performers welcoming tourists with drum-beatings & flat-bearing. Almost like a change of guards session.
There are electrical vehicles to send you to the nearby viewing platforms. When we were there, there was hardly a soul as it is still considered early. In early spring, the morning is still cold but evokes a bit of a deserted place. Pretty flat land, with only a tower ruins at the top overseeing the surroundings. Obviously the watch tower to spy on enemies if they are planning for an invasion. There is a platform for tourists to take a short walk around at the watch tower.
Token pass is a popular souvenirs, where we grabbed one for keep-sake. The pass is used historically to enable movement in the borders, not unlike our current passports. Expect to spend at least 2 hours in at the attractions immersed in the outdoor walks, before settling for a quick run of the small museums providing some historical contents.
Yadan Geopark Wonder
Nearby to the passes, there is a natural wonder of geopark that has developed over the windy desert over thousands of years. The beauty of these naturally formed yardang landscape – men will imagine the various forms and start giving them names eg camels, sphinx, peacocks etc.
Entrance fees cost RMB120, which also provides a transport that will stop at interval for tourists to appreciate the various rock formations & landscape. As the bus stops at interval with 15 – 20 mins at each stop, do expect to spend near to 2 hours within the attractions.
Jiayu Pass
Another pass, another deserted fortress? Jiayu Pass (Jiayuguan) is a first frontier fortress along the main passes of the great wall defence. The fortress is heavily armed and made up of 3 defence lines ie inner fort, outer fort and moat. Entrance fee is RMB120, giving access to a ride to the inner fortress and museum as well. The fortress has been heavily renovated and looks almost new.
Taking a walk in the fortress gives you an idea of how the sentry guards the fortress against invading enemies, lighting the tower watches & defending the city against the enemies.
Overhanging Great Wall of Jiayuguan
From the entrance of the attraction, the rebuilt great wall look fantastic. At the same time, a little daunting as the hike up looks difficult. As we climbed up the steps, the surrounding views offer a beautiful blue sky amidst the barren land, dotted with small bushes & greens. Big part of the wall has been renovated but retains the feel of being an isolated defensive wall in the history of the silk road.
Conclusion
One epiphanic conclusion that we have traversing the sparsely populated silk road ancient routes – it is a lonely travel, filled with wonders of the desert of beautiful exotic scenery as well as treacherous travel to avoid natural disasters and bandits. Now that the modern world has brought in the ease of transportation and safety, what are you waiting for? Jump on the bandwagon of travellers and walk the ancient route of the silk road. Imagine the trepidation of exotic finds, excitement of new finds, and all the adventures along the route.
Cheng's Musings 