Inner Mongolia is not a destination that comes to mind whenever attractions in China is mentioned. To be fair, China is so significantly huge and the attractions are aplenty in every nooks and corners. Even Inner Mongolia is huge on the map, and finding a starting point is never an easy thing. Landing on Chifeng is really by chance – as it is chosen mainly due to the convenience of a direct bullet train from Beijing to Chifeng (barely 3 hours from Beijing Chaoyang Railway Station) and the indications of beautiful sceneries during autumn around the areas.
Chifeng is on the northeast from Beijing, the 2nd most populous city of Inner Mongolia. The city itself is quite new, really huge roads (5 lanes for cars 1 way, with 2 ways it is 10 lanes!) in the city centre with lots of skyscrapers around. Brick and mortar in the city centre. The bullet train connects the city with Beijing as recent as 2021, linking Beijing Chaoyang to other cities such as Miyun (~ 30 mins), Chengde summer resort (~1 hour) and Chifeng (~ 2.5 hours). Buying the bullet train tickets are relatively easy. You can use trip.com website or the apps. Everything is online, even the ticketing.
Once you reach the train station, the luggages are required to be scanned. There are convenience stores in train station in Beijing (also has a few restaurants serving Chinese and western food) and Chifeng. As a foreigner, passport is required and the normal queue at the machine entrance may not be able to scan you through. Hence, the queue will have to be via the gates handled by the conductor (usually on the most left). Frankly, I quite like the modern feel of the bullet train station. Spacious with access to hot water, especially convenient during winter for a hot drink and cooking instant cup noodle. The toilet is a huge upgrade from the olden days toilet in China, but it is squatting toilet. While there is a cleaner always there to ensure a clean environment, I have encountered sticky situations before with toilets not flushed quite common.
Chifeng has a few attractions in and around the city. First and foremost, Chifeng Museum is quite an impressive place. I would recommend to go to this to a quick introduction on what are the thousand years of history and the backdrop to the places around. The museum is free of charge, just show your passport and you are free to go in. There are sections for the museum, starting with the earlier stone age to the Chinese dynasty. The museum has separate section for the Khitan’s Liao Dynasty (circa 900 – 1125) and Jurchen’s Jin Dynasty, which is also known as the predecessor to the Qing Dynasty. The Liao Dynasty has display of beautiful ornaments & jewelleries, very much reminiscense of Xiao Yan Yan’s story ie Empress Dowager Chengtian of Liao. The potteries are an impressive lot too, with musical instruments in the form of bells and drums taking main focus.
Chifeng is famous for its red stones surrounding at the Hongshan National Park. There is a distinct national park, and just next to it is the garden fit for short strolls. The national park forest has two distinct entrances at the South and Southeast. From the Southeast, there are well-paved roads going into the forest, climbing upwards. Reward yourself with the city views, and autumn colour of the trees. Coming out from the Southeast gate, you will see the gardens and further to the exit, there is the Hongshan Culture Museum.
During autumn and spring, national parks are very susceptible to fire. The Chinese takes the threat really seriously, often with banner everywhere to remind everyone to take precaution for bush fire. This is not only in Chifeng itself, but in the other parts of Inner Mongolia as well.
A quick day-trip from Chifeng will bring us to two distinct places respectively. Yulongsha Sand Dunes & Lake @ northeast and Prince Kalaqin Mansion @ southwest.
Yulongsha is a little more commercialised, whereby the sand dunes is surrounded with a lake to boot. Entrance fee is on the high side, but be prepared to take a long walk along the sand dunes. Trust us when we say walking in the dessert and sand dunes are difficult. If you would like an easier path, pay a little money for a camel ride up the hill before walking down. There are also 4-wheel drives which require additional costs. There is even a claim that the sand dune has the most difficult path for 4-wheelers deep in the sand dunes!
Adverse to bumpy ride, we opted for a slow walk up hill on the sand dunes. Took a little longer than expected, and sweating even in the breezy autumn wind. Upon going up the hill, the reward will be the beautiful view of the nearby autumn views. With the side lake to boot too. Getting to Yulongsha will require private transfer, as there are no public transportation. However, there are other interesting smaller scenic stops and small cities which will be easy stops for private transfer.
Prince Kalaqin is one of the Qing prince, endowed through the Qing banner. The mansion is situated in a specific village, and it has been passed on from one prince to another. Undergoing significant renovation, only some part of the mansion is open to visitors. However, the mansion still brings with it the Qing-dynasty history. With some of the sections turned as historical museum with information on authors of Mongol and Manchurian descents.
Similarly, getting to Prince Kalaqin Mansion is easier via private transfer. Read up a little more on the Qing Dynasty history before heading towards the mansion. And you can even change into a costume to your liking to take pictures inside the mansion for a mere RMB10.
Cheng's Musings 